Deflasking Care Guide
From flask to flourishing
Your plantlets grew up in a sterile, humid, sugar-fed flask — so they can't go straight into a pot. Deflasking is how you ease them into the real world. Take it slow and they'll reward you. Here's the whole process.
The deflasking protocol
Wash up
Clean hands and a tidy space are all you need — unlike the lab stage, this part isn't sterile work.
Lift them out
Open the flask and gently free the plantlets. Tease the roots loose — never yank.
Rinse off every trace of agar key step
Swirl the roots in room-temp water until the gel is completely gone. Leftover agar feeds mold.
Quick protective soak (optional)
A brief dip in dilute fungicide or 3% hydrogen peroxide (1 part to 5 parts water) discourages rot.
Pot into semi-hydro
Equal parts stratum and perlite in a self-watering pot — the mix relies on that reservoir to stay evenly moist.
Tent for humidity
Cover with a dome or clear bag. Young leaves have no protective cuticle yet — humidity keeps them alive.
Bright, indirect light
No direct sun. Keep them warm and steady, around 68–78°F.
Harden off slowly
Over 2–4 weeks, open the cover a little more each day until they live in open air.
Watch-outs
- Agar left on roots → mold. Rinse until squeaky clean.
- Direct sun or dry air too soon → shock. Ease in gently.
- Regular potting soil → stays too wet. Stick with the semi-hydro mix.
- Rushing the tent off → collapse. Weeks, not days.
Then what?
It's normal for the original leaves to yellow and drop as the plant settles in — they were only there to support the young plantlet. The fresh growth is the real plant taking hold. Once it's uncovered and established, care for it like any happy houseplant.
That's it — you grew a rare plant from its very first days.